Lift Kit Installation — Diesel Truck (Leveling to Full Suspension)
Step-by-step guide to installing lift kits on diesel trucks, from simple 2" leveling kits to full 6" suspension lifts. Covers coilover replacement, UCAs, and alignment needs.
Tools Needed
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Instructions
Choose Your Lift Type
Leveling kits (1.5"–2.5") use spacers over the front struts and are the easiest install. Suspension lifts (3"–6"+) replace struts, add upper control arms (UCAs), and require rear add-a-leafs or full spring replacements. Body lifts use pucks between the cab/bed and frame — they raise ride height without affecting suspension geometry. For diesel trucks (heavy front end), always use a lift rated for your truck's GVWR.
Safety & Prep
Park on level concrete. Chock rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Break loose all lug nuts before lifting. Use a quality 3-ton+ floor jack under the frame rails — never under the axle or differential. Support the truck on 4 jack stands at the frame.
Remove Front Wheels & Disassemble Front Suspension
Remove wheels. Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it with a wire — never let it hang by the brake line. Remove the ABS sensor wire. Separate the sway bar end links. Remove the lower shock bolt first, then the upper. Compress the coil spring with a spring compressor (NEVER cut springs under tension). Remove the strut assembly.
Install Leveling Spacers or New Struts
For a leveling kit: bolt the spacer on top of the existing strut mount in the engine bay. Torque to spec (usually 45–65 ft-lbs). For a full suspension lift: install new struts/shocks and upper control arms per kit instructions. Install new coil springs if included. Always torque suspension bolts to spec with the truck at ride height (not hanging), or you'll preload the bushings incorrectly.
Rear Lift (Add-A-Leaf or Block Kit)
For rear lift: unbolt the rear U-bolts holding the axle to the leaf springs. Insert a lift block between the axle perch and the leaf spring pack, or add an extra leaf to the spring pack. Re-install U-bolts and torque to 80–120 ft-lbs (check your spec). Add-a-leafs give a firmer, more load-rated result; blocks are faster but not recommended over 2" on diesel trucks due to axle wrap risk.
Reinstall & Torque Everything
Reinstall wheels. Lower the truck to ride height. With the truck's weight on the suspension, torque all rubber-bushed bolts (control arms, sway bar links, track bar) to spec — this prevents bushing wear from being preloaded in the wrong position. Typical torque: control arm bolts 120–150 ft-lbs, sway bar end links 55–70 ft-lbs.
Get an Alignment
ANY lift requires a professional 4-wheel alignment afterward. A misaligned lifted diesel truck will eat tires, wander at highway speed, and stress the entire front end. Budget $100–$200 for alignment. Also check and adjust the headlight aim — lifted trucks point headlights higher and blind oncoming traffic.
Break-In & Inspect
Drive 50–100 miles then re-torque all suspension bolts. Check for any rubbing, binding, or abnormal noise. Inspect brake lines and ABS wires for stretch or contact with moving parts. Check that the driveshaft doesn't bind at full droop and full compression.
